Weekly Fish Reports

May 13, 2012

Most days in Destin, Mullet Mike takes his boat The Sand Gnat into Choctawatchee Bay and cast nets for Striped Mullet. People in seaside towns around the world prize mullet, but they get little respect here. They even have an awful haircut named after them. When eaten fresh from the sea these under-appreciated critters are delicious. Arriving next day from Mullet Mike’s net at a good price, they are awfully good to eat.

In Washington, the House of Representatives voted 220-191 to halt funding for new Atlantic and Gulf catch share programs, with the sponsors saying “catch shares are no different than any other inside-the-Beltway style tactic determined to destroy every aspect of American freedom under the guise of conservation. By capping the amount of fish that may be caught annually and gifting a select few with shares of the annual catch, NOAA is privatizing access to a once open fishery. Make no mistake about it: catch shares are nothing less than a cap-and-trade management system for our oceans.” The problem with this ideological rant is that it has nothing to do with fisheries - it does not address the problem of limiting catches - universally agreed to in the industry - and making vessels economically viable. The huge number of industry supported buyouts show harvesters recognize acutely the problem of too many vessels chasing too few fish. Unfortunately, Congressional grandstanding for 'freedom' won't solve the problem.

Catch shares provide each fisherman with secure access to a portion of the total annual harvest of fish, allowing them to plan their fishing over the entire year. Two things happen under this new approach: uncertainty goes down, and stewardship grows. Fishermen and managers find they have new tools to conserve fish stocks, and the evidence is compelling. A recent study of fisheries published in the journal Marine Policy looked at fisheries before and after they adopted catch shares. Since the implementation of catch shares, fishermen on average are earning significantly more, fisheries are stabilizing, and safety has dramatically improved. For example, in 2010 alone, catch shares in three fisheries in the Pacific, New England and Gulf of Mexico saved enough fish from being tossed back dead to feed an estimated one million Americans for a year.

Yellowfin tuna has been in short supply, with a good part of the reason being an increased number of FDA rejections of “adulterated” tuna from Asia. In a disturbing story from Peru, fishermen began finding dead dolphins, hundreds of them, washed up on Peru’s northern coast. Now, seabirds have begun dying, too, and scientists have yet to conclusively pinpoint a cause. “Never in my 40 years as a fisherman have I seen anything like this,” said Francisco Ñiquen Rentería, the president of the Association of Artisanal Fishermen in Puerto Eten, in the Lambayeque region. “Sometimes in the past, you’d randomly see a dead dolphin or a pelican, but this, what’s happening now, is really alarming.” It is bad to fool with Mother Nature.


May 07, 2012

A storm is brewing in Bristol Bay, Alaska. Powerful interests seem to be gathering to allow the world’s largest open-pit mine to be built in the world’s largest salmon nursery.

Alaska’s attorney general Michael Geraghty is fighting the release of an US Environmental Protection Agency study due out next week. This assessment followed requests from nine tribes, two commercial fishing organizations, the Bristol Bay Native Corp. and others to initiate a Clean Water Act process that would prohibit or restrict discharges of metallic sulfide mining in the Bristol Bay headwaters. Geraghty said EPA lacked authority to conduct the survey, and the state would explore "all available legal options". Alaska Gov. Sean Parnell also asked the EPA not to take action, and Ken Taylor, former Gov. Sarah Palin’s point man in her argument that global warming did not threaten polar bears, has become environmental vice president for the Pebble Mine Partnership. Stakes are high; the value of the mine is estimated to be as much as $400 billion.

Anglo American, the London-based multinational powerhouse behind Pebble Mine, says it can extract the minerals safely. It proposes to build earthen walls the size of Hoover Dam to contain a lake of toxic residue in a seismically active area, storing billions of tons of mining waste forever. “In the short or the long run, it will have a disastrous effect,” said Lance Trasky, who monitored the project until he retired as a senior supervisor with the Alaska Department of Fish and Game.

We all feel strongly about improving the food system, and not protecting one of the world’s great food resources is simply wrong. Here are three real, practical ways to make a difference:
1- Sign the online petition. Make sure the folks in Washington know how we feel.
2- Make a video. Call us and we will send you a “No Pebble Mine” cap that you can wear shooting a short smart-phone video telling the folks in Washington that protecting our food supply is in our national interest. Or tell them how you really feel. We will be widely sharing our chef videos to show solidarity from the food movement.
3- Best way to save salmon is to eat them. Forty million sockeye will return to Bristol Bay in July, and along with our friends at Chefs Collaborative we will be organizing fresh sockeye salmon dinners to spread the word.

In the ever growing food world, the chef is the gatekeeper. Do the right thing.


April 30, 2012

We applaud the folks at Whole Foods (who shot this video with us down in Beaufort, NC last month) in their efforts to protect fish populations, but traditional fishing cultures need protecting as well. We carefully follow the advice of the scientific community, but by-catch species such as triggerfish in the Carolinas and little skate in New England with healthy abundant populations remain “unranked”. These under-appreciated, under-utilized species mean a great deal to the fishermen. Taking care of the fish is not enough; this resource feeds a whole community.

May Day has been a tradition of festivities throughout the centuries; a celebration of Spring, a day of political protest, pagan festivals, a saint's feast day, and opening day for grouper season in the Carolinas. Dave Tucker will start dayboat fishing grouper, pink snapper, cobia and amberjack on the F/V Emily's Weigh. James Holden will be doing the same for grouper and triggerfish on the F/V Sea Mint. Ray, Ian, and Randy Gray will be gigging flounder from the F/V Flounder Hounder at night with lights shining in the water. Way cool.

The only guy tough enough to go out in the fierce winds off Beaufort last week was Captain Donnie White of the F/V Sea Wolf. He has been greensticking for mahi, blackfin, yellowfin, and wahoo. Greenstick fishing rigs consist of long fiberglass poles mounted to the stern with no more than 10 hooks attached. Hooks are baited with plastic squid and trolled across the surface, mimicking flying fish skipping across the water. The Japanese introduced the gear to Hawaii in the 1980’s, and the quick retrieval allows fishermen to bring better fish to market, while significantly reducing by-catch.

Good news and bad news from New England where herring populations are strongly rebounding, while yellowtail flounder quota was cut by 80%. Very bad news from further north in Nova Scotia where Cooke Aquaculture was ordered by the Canadian government to destroy their entire salmon farm population due to a reemergence of the dreaded ISA virus. Friends don’t let friends eat farmed salmon. Alaska wild salmon season is just around the corner.


April 23, 2012

With over 70% of the earth’s surface covered by water, we think the term Earth Day is a bit too terrestrial. Wild fishing is man’s last true hunting for food, and chefs need to step forward to help ensure that our children enjoy this wonder.

The threat to the world’s greatest salmon nursery in Bristol Bay, Alaska remains virulent. The approval process for the world’s largest open pit mine in the headwaters of the bay reaches a critical point this spring when the EPA submits their report to Congress. None of us want to jeopardize the 40 million sockeye returning to Bristol Bay each year to spawn. In a culture where food is ever growing in importance, chefs are gatekeepers. We are sending chefs a Stop Pebble Mine hat, and asking them to shoot a smart phone video imploring Congress to do just that. These videos will be used in a concerted effort by people who think wild salmon are worth saving. Please don your cap.

While 20% of the world’s protein is derived from the sea, an estimated 20% of the world’s catch is landed illegally, reports Dr. Ray Hilborn, a fisheries scientist at the University of Washington. While management has become much better in the United States in much of the world rule-breaking “is an accepted way of business”. It was reported last week that 55% of seafood samples tested in Los Angeles were fraudulently labeled. Don’t buy fish from strangers.

Captain John of the F/V New Wave is again landing side-striped shrimp via otter trawl in Prince William Sound, AK. His is the only boat targeting them in Whittier; after landing he drives them 90 minutes to ship just hours out of the water. These sugar sweet shrimp the Japanese call ebi should land every Tuesday and Friday through August, and can be combined with halibut, cod or salmon.

The “Give Swordfish a Break” effort championed by chefs in the 90’s did so well that swordfish populations are thriving. "The swordfish is a success story," said Ellen Peel, president of The Billfish Foundation, “it has recovered.'' The U.S. has reduced fishing so much it is catching only 70 percent of its swordfish quota under the current international fishing treaty. If it doesn't catch more fish, the U.S. risks losing its quota to countries that allow fishing without measures to prevent the accidental catch of sea turtles, marlin, sharks and juvenile swordfish. Now the best way to protect swordfish is to eat them.


April 16, 2012

The trend of chefs butchering and utilizing everything from snout to tail reaches from coast to coast. Now we are seeing some amazing dishes from parts of fish that rarely see the plate. Michael White is serving sablefish collars at Marea in NYC. Yoshi Tome, owner of Sushi Ran in Sausalito, describes the Japanese delicacy monkfish livers as "very rich and creamy, but yet at the same time very light and delicate, feeling silky and velvety to the palate". When grouper fishermen came in from sea, they used to put the grouper cheeks aside for themselves; the cheeks are that good. We like no waste.

Things have gotten very challenging in the tuna world. US imports of treated yellowfin tuna fell almost 30 percent last year. The word from Indonesia, the Philippines and Vietnam, is that the fish are nowhere to be found. Moon Marine USA Corp. of Cupertino, CA is voluntarily recalling 58,828 pounds of imported yellowfin tuna that has been linked with an outbreak of salmonella. It has sickened more than 100 people in 20 states, federal health authorities reported Friday.

Our boys in Beaufort, NC have been steadily landing line-caught yellowfin, but high market demand has been forcing prices steadily higher. The lack of fresh yellowfin has pushed prices of 2+ loins above $15/lb. As spring turns to summer the fish will migrate north, and we will see steady supply landing in Montauk, NY. We are grateful that the well managed US fishery is allowing a sustainable yield, and that our chefs can serve a safe and delicious product.

Cardinals fans should join us on Tuesday afternoon at St Louis’s Sidney Street Café where we will be hosting an event along with Chef’s Collaborative, enjoying Bristol Bay wild sockeye and Florida wild white shrimp with a glass of wine. Promises to be delicious and fun.

Crawfish season is back in swing, and we are shipping live bugs from Natchitoches, LA. From Martha’s Vineyard, MA we are landing live scallops and beautiful steamer clams. A golden tilefish boat will be landing in Portland, ME this week, and will be shipping whole fish at a special price. Beginning next week we will be working with a mid-water trawler from Prince William Sound landing twice weekly at Seward with the famous Alaska side-stripe shrimp. These are the super sweet shrimp that the Japanese call ebi, and most of his catch will be headed for Asia. They can ship together with beautiful halibut, pacific cod, or trolled king salmon.

“Stick to American fisheries, and ‘wild caught’ is best,” Fox News quoted 'Deadliest Catch' Captain Keith Colburn. “When you start buying from overseas without the same health regulations, the quality issues can become scary. There are places that raise chickens above the fish pans, and use the excretions as a food source.” Yum.