bass

Happy New Fishing Year

New Year’s Day may be the beginning of the new calendar year, but for fishermen around the country May Day is when things really get started. From Cape Cod to the Carolinas, along the Florida Panhandle, from Neah Bay to Bristol Bay, boats have been readied, nets have been mended, and fish cutters have sharpened their knives for the start of the new fishing year. Winter always feels especially long in the fish world, and as fishing season opens we’re looking forward to the new fish that warmer waters bring and the delicious dishes our chef partners are bound to cook up with what’s landing at the docks.

In the Northeast, May 1 marks the day when squid, black sea bass, fluke, scup, and bluefish quotas open back up for commercial fishermen. In the Chesapeake, blue crab season has been open for weeks, but things really get going when the waters warm up. Down in Beaufort, NC, grouper season has opened, and fisherman David Tucker tells us, “It’s getting ready to bust loose here with pinks, cobia, groupers, amberjack, mahi and wahoo.”  Salmon season is just around the corner, and the trolled king salmon have already picked up, with some starting to make their way to the rivers of the Olympic Peninsula.

Every season has its good aspects, but there’s no beating the time of year when the sun is shining and the fish are biting. Enjoy every moment.

Who Caught Your Fish?

A NY Times article this week talked about the changing fishing culture in Greenland. Climate change has diminished commercial fishing opportunities, and mining is being considered as an economic alternative. While this might bring new jobs to the region, it's not a change that everyone wants. "It's about traditions, the freedom of a boat, family professions," says Greenland's housing and infrastructure minister. We've heard this sentiment before. Fishing is more than a business for our Maine fisherman friend Terry Alexander. "It's a way of life for us," he explains. Maybe it's time fishing cultures get more consideration.

The sustainable seafood movement doesn't seem to have taken off the way the local/organic food movement has, and we wonder if that's because the human component of fishing has too often been ignored. Local farms were recognized as a necessary part of our cultural fabric, and now chefs and home cooks alike take pride in knowing the name of the guy who grows their vegetables. We see restaurant menus that can name the person who produces their salt, but can't name the guy who catches their fish. Don't tell me about your warehouse, tell me about your fisherman.

Fish are jumping off Beaufort, NC, where Captain James Holden of the F/V Sea Mint is landing beautiful day-boat Wahoo and Mahi. Captain Dave “Grouperman” Tucker is bottom fishing for serious grouper, and the pound-netters are landing Flounder, Sheepshead and Drum. Two greenstick boats are pulling beautiful Yellowfin Tuna, and the day-boat Wahoo is $11.90/lb delivered, less if you are within 300 miles of the dock. This is the season to enjoy the incredible bounty from the bottom of NC’s Outer Banks.

PBS Newshour ran a frightening story this week about shrimp farmers from Thailand exploiting workers for cheap shrimp. Why would someone want antibiotic-filled imported shrimp that tastes bad, when they can have wild, sustainable, delicious shrimp and support Gulf Coast shrimpers? Beats me.

The fall season begins the end of the Northeast Striped Bass season. Please take a minute and watch this awesome 1956 newsreel about the passion of striper fishermen. Way cool.

Summertime in the Northeast

As a heat wave baked most of America, some fishermen found cool breezes in the Northeast where both recreational and commercial anglers wait patiently for their favorite time of the year, striped bass season. While recreational guys have been able to live line bunker since April, the commercial season for striped bass finally opened in July.

There is no mistaking the feeling of hooking up with a striper. They slam into bait with such force and abandon your line whirls away in a fury until you’re able to set the hook and the fight can begin. The power that awes fishermen is the same reason striped bass is prized for its firm meaty flesh where it’s diet of bunker, eels and clams gives it a sweet delicate flavor. Open a box of these fresh line-caught stripers and smell the ocean. It’s taken a little time for everyone to get over their initial excitement, and dock prices have come back down to earth. They are landing both in Montauk and Cape Cod, and are a highlight of every summer season.

Small boats are running out south of Martha’s Vineyard with hopes of landing local yellowfin tuna. The steam to Hudson Canyon is not short, but the reward is usually well worth the time and effort. In the style of our friends in Tobago, Massachusetts fishermen are dropping metal jigs on hand lines with hopes of hooking up with yellowfin. The sustainability of a hand-lining is unmatched - one man, one hook, one fish - almost a zero by-catch fishery.

In NY and PA the controversy surrounding fracking of the Marcellus shale for natural gas is heating up. A new study is concerned with chemicals seeping into Pennsylvania drinking water, while chef and goodfood advocate Mary Cleaver discusses Fracking and Its Dangerous Effects On Local Farms. If you are in Brooklyn this week you can enjoy some delicious food from Mary, Michael Anthony of Gramercy Tavern, Peter Hoffman of Back Forty, Zak Pelaccio of Fatty 'Cue, and a host of others at a benefit called Taste of the Marcellus to raise fracking awareness.

As the Bristol Bay sockeye season winds down, awareness of the Pebble Mine threat increases. This week the Huffington Post asked people to share Sea to Table’s videos, as the EPA comment period ends. Remember, the best way to save a salmon is to eat a salmon.

Fishy Clams

The owner of a NYC Chinatown fish market was arrested for allegedly selling dangerously dirty clams that she smuggled in on the luggage racks of passenger buses that regularly travel from Washington to Boston. Packaged in burlap, about a dozen packages would arrive on each bus Mondays and Tuesdays. Tests showed high levels of fecal matter and other bacteria that made the claims unfit for human consumption. “Bottom line is this: would you want to eat something stored in the luggage cart of a bus since at least Philadelphia?” asked Department of Environmental Conservation Officer Brent Wilson. Meanwhile, in response to worldwide outrage that the practice of “finning” sharks has decimated the shark populations of all the oceans, the Chinese government announced that they would no longer serve shark-fin soup at state dinners.

The growing problem of fish fraud does not seem to get the attention it deserves. A Boston Globe investigation found fish bought at restaurants across New England was mislabeled about half the time. Sometimes it was innocent error due to the opacity of the supply chain, but often the switch was deliberate, driven by profit. The solution is simple: know where your fish comes from. Our transparent model hopes to shed some light on these issues, as we are most proud of the fishermen whose catch we sell.

Striped Bass season opens in both Massachusetts and New York next week, and it looks like a bumper season ahead. Sockeye Salmon arrived late to Bristol Bay this year, but it looks like the harvest will meet expectations as more that 2 million fish have already been landed. With the mining threat to the world’s greatest salmon nursery remaining virulent, remember that the best way to save a wild sockeye is to eat a wild sockeye.

With reports that agribusiness giants Monsanto and Cargill are now aggressively marketing Genetically Modified Soybeans as feed to salmon farmers, one can’t help notice the similarity of aquaculture and industrial meat production. Once you look behind the curtain at a chicken processing plant or a fish farm, the protein does not taste quite as good. Scientists at Oceana have recently proposed that with proper management, the world’s oceans are capable of doubling the harvest of sustainable wild fish to help feed the world’s growing human population. I find the idea of supporting natural systems very appealing. We all know that happy chickens lay better eggs.

Year of the Wild Fish

The New Year brings renewed hope for fishing communities around America.

Wild Florida Shrimp landing on both the Atlantic and Gulf coasts provide a healthier and better eating alternative to imported farmed shrimp. On the Florida panhandle, catch share quotas are assuring that American Red Snapper and Grouper are landing every week, as well as the underappreciated Grey Mullet.

Vermillion Snapper season opens today in the Carolinas, while plentiful Yellowfin Tuna swim in local waters. In the resurgent Chesapeake, Striped Bass are running strong, as are Channel Catfish and Perch. Further north in Montauk, NY, Fluke and Golden Tilefish land each week.

Winter in New England usually means snow, but does not deter the hearty fishermen. In Rhode Island, Fluke, Skate, and Squid are landing, while in New Bedford, Scallops and Monkfish are on the dock almost every day. Hardshell Maine Lobsters are now traceable to the harvesting vessel and trap, and next day from the water to your kitchen. Saithe, Hake, Haddock, and Rockfish land multiple times per week on the dock in Portland, and although there is concern about Atlantic Cod, Pacific Cod season opens today in Alaska with quotas increased by 14.5%.

To be able to enjoy these bounties and support traditional fishing communities is a blessing. May you and your family enjoy a healthy and prosperous 2012.

Fish Stories

The Center for American Progress reported on the top five fish stories of 2011: fisheries management success, pirate fishing, forage fish, fish farming, and sharks. It’s good to see fish in the news.

One story causing concern is a report that the most recent stock assessment of Gulf of Maine Cod was not as strong as it was two years ago. While fishermen are reporting good catches, scientists are worried. Even though the data have not been finalized, NOAA has taken the unusual step of convening a team to meet with fishermen and discuss options. A close cousin of cod, Gulf of Maine Saithe, has been abundant, with this years quota not being met, and next years being increased. It is a great eating fish at an excellent price. And from the Gulf of Alaska, our fishermen are landing Pacific Cod daily.

We are most pleased to now be working with fisherman Chris Lingerman from the Chesapeake Bay fishing community of Rock Hall, MD. Chris and his family are landing Striped Bass, Channel Catfish, and White Perch, and we are able to combine Blue Crab harvested down the road in Cambridge, MD in the same box.

Paul Greenberg wrote this week on the Whitefish’s Burden. And if you happen to be in NYC today, you might want to drop in at the Old Fulton Fish Market where Paul and Sea to Table will help celebrate Wintermarket with an offering of local seafood and wine. Not a bad way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

The First Thanksgiving

When the original Plymouth Colony celebrated their first harvest, the center of the plate was focused on creatures from the sea, as Pilgrim Edward Winslow wrote in a letter dated December 12, 1621. “Our bay is full of lobsters all the summer and affordeth variety of other fish; in September we can take a hogshead of eels in a night, with small labor, and can dig them out of their beds all the winter. We have mussels, cod and bass and other fish… at our doors.” As the popularity of sustainable seafood continues to grow, many will want to celebrate Thanksgiving in a truly traditional way. From the Gulf of Maine beautiful Haddock, Hake, Pollock, and Rockfish are landing, and we are now working with a lobsterman shipping hard shells same day pulled. From Southern New England we are landing Fluke, Bluefish, Skate, Monkfish and Scallops. Sounds like a Thanksgiving feast.

Although New England’s waters may not be as full of fish today, stocks are increasing across the board, and catch share management systems are being embraced by traditional fishing communities that had once been skeptical. “To ensure a vibrant future for our local fishing economies”, a Congressional delegation is working to assure the interests of small-scale fisheries and the communities they support.

From the Gulf of Mexico, we are now working with boats landing at Destin on Florida’s panhandle. Over the past year Gulf seafood has become the world’s most carefully monitored and tested, and the surprising results have shown all to be perfectly safe. Well managed fish populations are abundant, and after dealing with hurricanes and oil spills, these fishing communities need support. Not to mention that Grouper, Snapper, Tuna, Kingfish, Trigger, and Mullet are delicious.

Illegal, unreported and unregulated (IUU) fishing is a global problem that threatens healthy ocean ecosystems and sustainable fisheries. It undermines the sustainable practices of legitimate fishing operations in the United States, and elsewhere, and presents unfair market competition to sustainable seafood products. An estimated $10 to $23 billion in global value is lost annually due to IUU fishing. President Obama submitted to the Senate, for its advice and consent, a new treaty designed to combat illegal fishing activities worldwide. Although this is only a first step, it is a step in the right direction.

This week we will only be shipping on Monday and Tuesday, so please give us a call to assure happy diners.

The Most Important Fish in the Sea

Cooler weather is setting in with ocean temperatures dropping. Migratory species are well on their way towards wintering grounds and colder water species are just coming alive. In preparation of this we have partnered with a dock and number of boats in the historic port of New Bedford, MA where we will be seeing landings of Scallops and Monkfish steadily through Spring.

Scallops are landing as large as U8 all the way through 20/30 sizing. Because we are buying directly off the boat and from a local dock our scallops are never "soaked" with poly tri-phosphates which inflate scallop sizing and artificially prolong shelf life through water retention. These are truly Dry Scallops with our guys on the dock ready to attest to it. And, until temperatures hits freezing, we will be seeing limited landings of local Nantucket Bay Scallops. They are a real treat.

Landing at the same dock as the Scallop boats are beautiful Monkfish. We are shipping skin-off tails and are making most of the fish with Monk Cheeks and Monk Livers to be available soon. Both will be limited in quantity so please call ahead to reserve.

States from Maine to Florida voted Wednesday to set new, strict limits on catching menhaden from coastal waters and the Chesapeake Bay, handing environmentalists and sports fishermen a major victory in how this important little fish is managed. "This is great news for jobs, for our economy and for a society that values wildlife," said Will Baker, president of the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. Menhaden or bunker have been dubbed “The Most Important Fish in the Sea” by author H. Bruce Franklin, who wrote the definitive book on the subject. They’re a vital source of forage at various life stages for a variety of species, especially Striped Bass and Bluefish. In addition, menhaden are filter feeders important to the ecosystem. Bunkers attract predators to our waters, and are a primary food for stripers and blues. The primary exploiter of the resource has been Omega Protein Corporation who catches millions of pounds to be reduced into fish meal and oils at its factory in Reedville, Va. The company’s giant reduction boats are now banned from state waters, where most of the approximately 160,000 metric tons the company boated last year came from. "Today's vote is a welcome step for a fish that hasn't caught a break since Dwight Eisenhower was president," said Peter Baker of the Pew Group. "When this little fish disappears, big fish (and the rest of us) are in trouble."

Michael appeared last week with our friend Patrick Martins on the Heritage Radio Network to talk about shrimp. Please give us a call to talk about all kinds of beautiful seafood.

Hot Jazz Chas

This has been a joyous and tumultuous week for the Dimin clan as Michael and I were blessed with our first grandchild. Charles Frederick Dimin was born to Bethany Obrecht and Sean Dimin on Tuesday September 27th weighing in at 7lbs 14oz while measuring 20.5 inches, just at the NY recreational Fluke size limit. A keeper!

Also on Tuesday we hosted a fishing party out of Gosman’s Dock in Montauk. A team of chefs from the Bastianich/Batali group including Esca’s Dave Pasternack, Felidia’s Fortunato Nicotra, Lupa’s Cruz Goler, and Eataly’s Hank Balle went to sea with Captain Tom Cusimano on the F/V Sea Wife. They landed beautiful Bluefish, Black Sea Bass, and a slew of Striped Bass including a 48 pounder! As Chef Paternack said “There's no fish that tastes better than your own”. A fine day indeed.

Spiny Dogfish has become the first shark fishery in the world to be deemed sustainable, offering a glimmer of hope for globally overfished shark populations. The Marine Stewardship Council (MSC), has concluded that British Columbia’s commercial hook-and-line dogfish fishery is sustainable following an independent scientific assessment. Scott Wallace, a fisheries analyst with the the David Suzuki Foundation, said "this is an exception in the world of shark fisheries", and the fishery was worth supporting.

Spiny Dogfish populations have also been exploding in the North Atlantic and we expect that soon to be recognized by fisheries management, opening the door for another sustainable species. Although most shark populations are severely threatened worldwide, some conservation efforts are beginning to work.

Yellowfin Tuna Time

As cooler weather begins on the east coast, large schools of tuna are feeding on various forage fish at the Hudson Canyon off NYC. Boats are landing at Gosman’s Dock in Montauk, off-loading beautiful fish. We are now able to deliver Yellowfin Tuna loins overnight for $12.40/lb, and if you are lucky enough to be located within 300 miles of Montauk, $10.40/lb. Word from the dock is that tuna should be plentiful for at least a month.

Sean visited the Chesapeake this past week, meeting with the Maryland Watermen’s Association. We are hoping to soon offer Striped Bass as well as Blue Crab from the bay. Our friends Steve Vilnet and Barton Seaver featured on NPR radio last week discussing the Chesapeake’s bounty.

While catch share management in the US makes significant progress in rebuilding fish populations and supporting fishing communities, “fisheries management in Europe is poor to non-existent” according to an EU report. European fishing subsidies, widely criticized, are not accomplishing the goal of sustaining both fish and fishermen.

And a shout out to Stephanie Izard, chef/owner of Chicago’s Girl & the Goat, named the official chef of CMT ARTISTS OF THE YEAR event. "Stephanie Izard is a rock star in her own right," said John Hamlin of Country Music Television. And a pretty good chef too.

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