gulf

Cod in Hot Water

NOAA has released data showing that for the first six months of 2012, sea surface temperatures and bottom temperatures on the Northeast Continental shelf were the highest ever recorded. Many species of fish change their locations in response to temperature. This is a well known phenomenon with Atlantic Cod, where 'cod distribution continues to be dynamic, with northerly shifts detected in the spring 2012 data, consistent with a response to ecosystem warming'. “Two years ago we did have a good biomass of codfish off Montauk (NY) and even here and then those fish just disappeared,” said Capt. Jimmy Elliott of the Golden Eagle in Belmar NJ. In essence, US Atlantic Cod stocks appear to be moving to Canada.

As maybe the alarming upward temperatures are not solely in man’s purview, declining Gulf of Maine cod populations are not just the fault of fishermen. Our friend Jen Levin of Gulf of Maine Research Institute’s Responsibly Harvested program says that “New England was built on Cod”. Luckily as Atlantic Cod swim north, populations of their close cousins, Atlantic Hake and Pollock, remain healthy and sustainable. We need to enjoy Maine’s best eating fish, and support New England fishermen.

NOAA had some better news as U.S seafood landings reached a 17-year high in 2011, thanks in part to rebuilding fish populations, and increased value of landings. Yet even with the improved catch last year, the U.S. still imported over 90% of the seafood consumed here in 2011, with the majority being farmed fish from Asia. We all need to eatbetterfish.

In another interesting development, scientists have discovered that sharks are colorblind. Kinda wish everyone was.

Old England, New England

There is a BBC TV series called The Fisherman’s Apprentice where Monty Halls travels to a traditional Cornwall fishing village in the south of England. He discovers that over 80% of the fishing boats are less than 30 feet long, yet the large industrial fleets land over 80% of the catch. He reports that over 80% of the catch is exported outside the UK, while the UK imports over $3 Billion per year in seafood. He does not understand why England does not support their traditional fishing industry.

All the issues he identifies in Old England ring true in New England, where our fisherman friend Terry Alexander is now a member of the New England Management Council. While some Gulf of Maine species like Atlantic Cod still are struggling to recover, their close cousin, Atlantic Pollock or Saithe, is abundantly thriving. As opposed to Pacific Pollock, a smaller, less desirable species that is industrially fish by massive process-at-sea vessels, Atlantic Pollock are landing most every day by small vessels in Portland, and give chefs the opportunity to enjoy a delicious under-appreciated fish and support a treasured fishery.

A great story is the resurgence of the Spiny Dogfish. While shark populations are being challenged worldwide, Dogfish, or sand sharks in the northeast, have become so abundant that they were last week certified as a sustainable fishery by the Marine Stewardship Council. Dogfish are small bottom dwellers that swim the Atlantic Ocean at depths of 2,400 feet. They swim and hunt in packs of 100 to 1000 – hence the name Dogfish. Low in fat and high in Selenium and vitamins B6 & B12, dogfish are a good protein choice. The shark has a mild flavor some say it is similar to cod. The meat holds up well to marinades and it is great on the grill.

A staple of the English fish and chip shop, Dogfish also make for an outstanding fish sandwich. We think that an everyman’s fish sandwich will become an ever more popular choice. In NYC’s Ditch Plains, chef Marc Murphy serves an All-American saithe sandwich to rave reviews. What is your favorite fish sandwich? Please reply to this email or or tweet @sea2table with the hashtag #everymansfish. Best sandwich wins a prize.

Does Congress really hate wild salmon?

Congressional Republicans are lining up against the possibility that the Environmental Protection Agency would block the proposed pebble mine. California Republican Rep. Darrell Issa, the House oversight committee chairman, and Ohio Republican Rep. Jim Jordan, say the EPA doesn't have authority to pre-emptively veto permits.

Could agribusiness giants Cargill and Monsanto be behind this with their big push, selling genetically-modified (GMO) soy product as salmon farm fish feed? They best be careful as the same group of attorneys that successfully sued Big Tobacco have set their sights on Big Food. Meanwhile PBS’s Frontline featured the threat to Bristol Bay’s wild sockeye salmon culture by the pebble mine. If only the salmon could speak for themselves.

Last week we paid a visit to shrimpers and fishermen on the Florida Panhandle. The Wood family started fishing there in 1860, and Grandpa Wood decided to try his hand at shrimping in 1950. Now Ed Wood directs a company that is the second largest employer in Port St. Joe, after the school district. You can still find his father, Buddy, at Wood's Fisheries 7 days a week, maintaining their state-of-the-art IQF freezing equipment. Shrimpers in the Gulf haven't had it easy in the past several years, a fact Wood contributes primarily to the influx of farmed shrimp from Asia. Just as the American wild shrimp industry started bouncing back, the BP oil spill happened. But Ed is looking to the future, and he buys only the highest quality wild shrimp, frozen at sea and untouched by preservatives or additives. "Ultimately," says Wood, "you have to consider the human component of sustainability as well as the environmental." One shrimp boat captain attested, "Ed supported me when I didn't even have shoes on my feet." Now his boat, the F/V Patricia Lee, is considered one of the finest shrimping vessels on the Gulf.

In Destin, we visited another family-run business, Harbor Docks. The Morgan family started Harbor Docks restaurant in 1979. A few years later, they opened a wholesale seafood market next door as a way to ensure that the restaurant gets the freshest fish possible. Boats land at the dock downstairs and the fish gets carried up to the restaurant as soon as it's cut and cleaned. It doesn't get fresher than that, but we're lucky enough to work with this group of Destin fishermen to deliver their catch next day from the dock. We went out king mackerel fishing on the F/V Hey Baby, watched boats unload, and helped Chief, Harbor Dock's oldest fish cutter, pack boxes of snapper and mullet. Not a bad way to spend a summer afternoon.

Everyone Loves Shrimp

If you are going to do something, do it right.

Each day we send beautiful, wild fish to incredible chefs across the country, but we too often see "workhorse" menu items overlooked. It may be force of habit or perceived cost that allows talented, smart and dedicated chefs to use pond-raised Asian shrimp over Wild American shrimp, but we don't get it. Chefs like beautiful product and low food cost, diners like a good menu story and delicious; these facts need not be in conflict. American Cut's Marc Forgione, Catch 35's Eddie Sweeney, Kitchen Cafe's Kyle Mendenhall and Felidia's Fortunato Nicotra are leveraging the value of sourcing Wild Florida White Shrimp to execute beautiful food and connect diners to their fishermen without busting their food cost.

"For five generations, our family has owned and operated Wood's Fisheries. It's been 150 years since our company was founded, but our mission has never changed-- to delivery the world's tastiest shrimp", declares Ed Wood of Port St Joe, FL. Wood’s is our sole source for Wild Florida White Shrimp, which are prized by chefs for their white flesh, firm texture, and slightly sweet briny flavor. The fishery is sustainably managed and harvested, with each and every shrimp traceable back to the captain who landed it.

There is an old gulf coast joke that folks living south of the I-10 would never eat a shrimp without a head and folks north of the I-10 don't know shrimps have heads, but advances in IQF (Individual Quick Frozen) technology allow us to deliver perfect head on shrimp to our chefs, no matter how far from the coast. The IQF process consists of blast freezing just-caught shrimp at extremely cold temperatures in individual pieces. This keeps our shrimp at their freshest point and allows chefs to use/refresh the exact number of shrimp needed for each service. Our method is entirely chemical-free, and nothing touches your wild white shrimp but sea water. Whether you prefer head-on or head-off, compare these beautiful creatures with the 90% of all shrimp in the US that comes from overseas; not only are they head and shoulders better, but if you qualify for FedEx next day ground, they might even cost less.

The summer season is swinging with multiple species landing daily at all our docks. Enjoy.

Summer Season

Memorial Day marks the start of the summer season, and fish everywhere are jumping.

Alaska salmon season began last week with an unexpectedly strong run of sockeye at the Cooper River, driving prices down to $10/lb in the first week. We will be landing sockeye next in Prince William Sound, then in Cook Inlet and finally in Bristol Bay by the end of June.

Gulf of Mexico fishing continues strong with red snapper and grouper, mackerel and mullet. Off the Carolinas, greenstick boats are landing yellowfin tuna and swordfish, before they begin to migrate north. A wide variety of species are finding their way to the dock in Montauk, NY and Point Judith, RI, while monkfish and scallops are landing multiple times per week in New Bedford, MA. From Portland, ME lobster pricing is beginning to back down, and the harpoon fishermen are anxious for the swordfish to return.

A NY Times article this week discussed the value of eco-labels. Although well-intended they often do not reflect the latest science, and without helping the fish stocks, harm the traditional communities the fish support. A recent study found that many of the species certified were in fact over-fished, and expressed “growing concern among scientists about the effectiveness of seafood eco-labeling”. 

ABC World News tested imported farmed shrimp from Asia, with disturbing findings. Three different banned antibiotics were found in the shrimp: enrofloxacin, an antibiotic banned in animals that Americans eat because it damages the immune system; chloramphenicol, suspected to cause cancer in humans; and carcinogen nitrofuranzone, which was banned in the U.S. 40 years ago. The Alaska Dispatch cites rampant slavery and human trafficking issues in the Asian seafood industry. A Louisiana seafood processor was charged in federal court in New Orleans last week with mislabeling shrimp. With over 90% of all shrimp consumed in the US imported, people are eating some bad shrimp.

The key to the right seafood is traceability. Know where your seafood came from.

EPA: PM BFD 4 BB

Late Friday the Environmental Protection Agency issued a long awaited report declaring that Pebble Mine would be a ‘Big Fish Disaster’ for Bristol Bay, Alaska.

Threatening to build the world’s largest open-pit mine in the world’s largest salmon nursery has tugged at the heart-strings of fish-huggers everywhere. The Bristol Bay Watershed Assessment Report declares “mining at this scale would cause the loss of spawning and rearing habitat for multiple species” and “over the life span of a large mine, at least one or more accidents or failures could occur, potentially resulting in immediate, severe impacts on salmon”. Strong words. The report was issued in the face of political pressure from Alaska officials where the mine developers have earmarked $107 million to influence the permitting process.

The FDA also announced that all Korean fresh and frozen mussels, oysters, clams, and scallops, along with any product processed or containing them, should be removed from the US market due to concerns over Noro virus. Marion Nestle wrote this week about pink tuna slime that is commonly used in cheap sushi. If something seems too good to be true, it usually is. If you want good fish, know your fisherman.

On the good news side of the ledger, NOAA issued their annual status of the stocks report declaring 86% of US fisheries were not being overfished, and that 6 additional stocks, including Atlantic coast summer flounder and Gulf of Maine haddock, were fully rebuilt. Also this weekend is the official start to the Alaska Salmon Season with the first net opening in Copper River. We will be shipping our first sockeye on Monday to arrive Tuesday. Life is good.

While some famous chefs are controversially saying that a great meal is more important than good intention, some things are a simple matter of right and wrong. If you happen to be in NYC on this glorious Spring Sunday, please join the Sea to Table crew at New Amsterdam Market’s Gathering of the Fisheries to discuss protecting salmon up in Bristol Bay. “This is not about being anti-mining. This is about recognizing that some places are not appropriate for these sorts of industrial activities” says our friend Elizabeth Dubovsky of Save Bristol Bay. Stand up for what’s right.

Mullet Makeover

Most days in Destin, Mullet Mike takes his boat The Sand Gnat into Choctawatchee Bay and cast nets for Striped Mullet. People in seaside towns around the world prize mullet, but they get little respect here. They even have an awful haircut named after them. When eaten fresh from the sea these under-appreciated critters are delicious. Arriving next day from Mullet Mike’s net at a good price, they are awfully good to eat.

In Washington, the House of Representatives voted 220-191 to halt funding for new Atlantic and Gulf catch share programs, with the sponsors saying “catch shares are no different than any other inside-the-Beltway style tactic determined to destroy every aspect of American freedom under the guise of conservation. By capping the amount of fish that may be caught annually and gifting a select few with shares of the annual catch, NOAA is privatizing access to a once open fishery. Make no mistake about it: catch shares are nothing less than a cap-and-trade management system for our oceans.” The problem with this ideological rant is that it has nothing to do with fisheries - it does not address the problem of limiting catches - universally agreed to in the industry - and making vessels economically viable. The huge number of industry supported buyouts show harvesters recognize acutely the problem of too many vessels chasing too few fish. Unfortunately, Congressional grandstanding for 'freedom' won't solve the problem.

Catch shares provide each fisherman with secure access to a portion of the total annual harvest of fish, allowing them to plan their fishing over the entire year. Two things happen under this new approach: uncertainty goes down, and stewardship grows. Fishermen and managers find they have new tools to conserve fish stocks, and the evidence is compelling. A recent study of fisheries published in the journal Marine Policy looked at fisheries before and after they adopted catch shares. Since the implementation of catch shares, fishermen on average are earning significantly more, fisheries are stabilizing, and safety has dramatically improved. For example, in 2010 alone, catch shares in three fisheries in the Pacific, New England and Gulf of Mexico saved enough fish from being tossed back dead to feed an estimated one million Americans for a year.

Yellowfin tuna has been in short supply, with a good part of the reason being an increased number of FDA rejections of “adulterated” tuna from Asia. In a disturbing story from Peru, fishermen began finding dead dolphins, hundreds of them, washed up on Peru’s northern coast. Now, seabirds have begun dying, too, and scientists have yet to conclusively pinpoint a cause. “Never in my 40 years as a fisherman have I seen anything like this,” said Francisco Ñiquen Rentería, the president of the Association of Artisanal Fishermen in Puerto Eten, in the Lambayeque region. “Sometimes in the past, you’d randomly see a dead dolphin or a pelican, but this, what’s happening now, is really alarming.” It is bad to fool with Mother Nature.

Hooray for the Red, White, and Blue

Midwesterners count among their blessings a deep sense of community, family, and a special pride in how well they treat their neighbors. They do bemoan the distance to the nearest ocean and lack of access to fresh fish. The one local fish that folks in the middle of the country do enjoy is whitefish.

The Petersen family has been commercial fishing for Great Lakes Whitefish in the Muskegon, MI area since 1927. Whitefish (Coregonus clupeaformis) is the most economically valuable freshwater species of the Great Lakes, whose exceptionally fine flavor has been extolled since the days of the early explorers. The native Anishinabe word for whitefish is Atikamig. They are net caught and harvested daily on small boats, and we will be begin shipping these 2-4 pounders, headed and gutted, this week. Captain Eric Petersen and his wife Amber Mae take great pride in the loving care they give their fish, and if you are within about 300 miles of their dock you can enjoy them next day delivered FedEx Ground with the lowest possible carbon footprint at a special local price.

Last week was a busy one. Food and Wine announced their Best New Chefs 2012, and we want to congratulate all the winners especially our friends Dan Kluger of NYC’s ABC Kitchen, and Erik Anderson and Josh Habiger of Nashville’s The Catbird Seat. We are proud to work with such fine chefs. I appeared with a dynamic panel on Heritage Radio Network to discuss the threat to the world’s greatest salmon run by the planned construction of the world’s largest open pit mine in Bristol Bay, AK. One conclusion was that the best way to save wild salmon is to eat them. Meanwhile in New England, Atlantic Cod quotas were cut dramatically, while other Gulf of Maine species populations like Hake and Saithe are thriving.

After three years of study a group of thirteen international scientist issued a report, “Little Fish, Big Impact” concluding it critical to strictly mange the harvest of forage fish to feed fish farms, especially in Maryland where blue crabs are staging a comeback.

With all the pink-slime stories making everyone take a second look at that hamburger, Nicholas Kristof reported that chickens are routinely fed arsenic, caffeine, banned antibiotics, and the active ingredients of Tylenol and Benadryl, while in Scotland scientists have created ‘armour-plated’ salmon to combat sea lice epidemics in fish farms. Sounds delicious.

Support traditional wild fishing communities; red salmon from Alaska, whitefish from Michigan, blue crab from the Chesapeake. It’s your patriotic duty.

Carolina in My Mind

Sun was shining brightly in beautiful Beaufort, NC this week, and I was lucky enough to spend a day with Jack Cox and other fishermen there. Jack is a member of the South Atlantic Management Council and is most concerned with an inability to implement the catch-shares programs that have been benefitting traditional fishing communities around the nation. Still operating under the old “derby” style system, the Carolina grouper/snapper complex is closed to fishing until May 1. “I can’t make enough money to pay for gas keeping only trigger and amber” said F/V Sea Mint Captain James Holden, whose Lumbee ancestors have fished these waters for centuries. “I won’t even go back out until May”. Until then Captain Mike Santos of the F/V Iron Maiden will land summer flounder, and we will see a steady supply of sword and tuna from two boats that will head to their Montauk, NY summer home by June.

On our way home we visited the Raleigh/Durham area, home to a vibrant, growing food scene. We met a great group of chefs at Lantern Restaurant in Chapel Hill, where chef Andrea Reusing put her magic touch on some wild Bristol Bay sockeye salmon and some big wild Florida Gulf white shrimp. An impressive group in an impressive place enjoyed some impressive seafood.

Up north in the Gulf of Maine there is renewed concern for the health of Atlantic cod populations. A step in the right direction happened this week when Whole Foods committed to stop selling all “red-listed” fish by Earth Day 2012, a year ahead of schedule.

Just a few years back the Chesapeake blue crab fishery was in trouble, but strict management has lead it back to where they are now seeking MSC certification. Blue crab season opens today, and when you taste Maryland blue crab in comparison with the Asian product that has flooded the market, it makes you doubly glad that it will be around for our grandkids.

Down in Destin, FL, Chatham Morgan reports that in addition to the steady tuna, snapper, and grouper landing there, mullet, mackerel, pompano, cobia and sheepshead are now being caught within a mile of the beach. These delicious, under-utilized, under-appreciated species, next day from the dock, are a true chef’s delight. Your diners deserve them.

Chef as the Gatekeeper

As food continues to gain momentum as a cultural icon, chefs play an increasingly influential role. The food movement has moved from the coasts to the heartland, from the foodies to the masses. Chefs are the new rock stars, but with power comes responsibility. Chefs need to lead the way.

Along with our friends at Chefs Collaborative, Sea to Table is sponsoring a series of chef gatherings in cities where eclectic food scenes are emerging. This spring we will be visiting St. Louis and Cleveland, with our first event this coming Wednesday 28March from 2-3PM at Andrea Reusing’s award winning Lantern Restaurant in Chapel Hill, NC. Be there if you can. We will taste wild sockeye salmon from Bristol Bay Alaska where the world’s great salmon run is threatened by Pebble Mine, and wild white shrimp from Florida’s Gulf Coast, where reawakening fisheries are working to recover. Enjoy a glass of wine while talking about how chefs can help. It is critical that we protect fish populations, but we also need to support traditional fishing communities that depend on the resource. It’s not just about the fish.

The undersea world is a vast realm over 90% unexplored by man. But man has put his thumb on fish stocks worldwide, and unless he changes his way our grandchildren might not enjoy the sea’s bounty. Wild fishing is the last true hunting on earth, and needs to be treated with the reverence it deserves.

From Florida’s panhandle the old time fishing community of Destin is celebrating spring with their annual Cobia tournament. As the Gulf springs back to life, bountiful landings of snapper, grouper, amberjack, king mackerel, and tuna accompany two types of mullet, only one of which is a haircut. Chatham Morgan and his boys have been landing some real beautiful fish. Chatham describes cobia fishing as "hours of absolute boredom punctuated by a moment of absolute f....ing chaos."

Halibut season has started strong in Alaska, and Chef Jonathan of Benny’s Chophouse in Chicago has been serving them with English peas, buttered spring ramps, & morel mushroom flan. Sounds pretty good.

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